Graham-ophones

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ARTY GB (1) copy Zwarteschijf

Various Parts

Ken Priestley

Leather cloth

F R Ratchford J Hewitt

Diaphragms

Meadows and Passmore

PLEASE NOTE:

I DO NOT SUPPLY

ANY PARTS

I'M MERELY

A COLLECTOR.

HMV No 59 Dismantling, including

Spring Removal and Refit

This page deals with dismantling the HMV No 59 motor used in many of the 101 series of gramophones.  It also applies to the No 69 motor used in several table models.   It includes removal and refitting the spring in the spring case.

 

Unless you know the spring case to have been serviced its inevitable that the restoration of an HMV machine will require the spring to be removed from its case, cleaned a regreased.  The grease that HMV used will, after all this time, have changed into a thick, sticky mess which makes this perhaps job the dirtiest in the restoration process.  In some instances access to the spring is straightforward requiring nothing more that removing 4 screws. However in some motors, e.g.  the HMV 59, 69, 26590, and 200 series motors, the spring is held in the case by a lid secured by a spring clip which can prove troublesome.  I have therefore chosen this particular type for the demonstration video.

 

For a newcomer to gramophone restoration removing the spring is the single most daunting aspect.  Books, You Tube videos etc all mention the potential hazard of a coiled spring.   My habit of removing a spring in the garden comes from the horror stories I had heard about when I came to my first spring removal for, with the extra space, I felt a bit safer at least.  However with a sensible, controlled approach the process is quite straightforward, the main feature being maintaining control over the spring.  I have now done dozens of springs and am glad to say there has never been one incident of feeling the spring was out of my control.  That said the process does hold the potential for injury so care is required.

Click on thumbnails for a larger image

Notes to photographs:

 

No. 1 - This shows the lid and part of the spring after removal and before cleaning.  The old grease has become a thick, sticky mess, every trace of which should be removed.  Soaking in paraffin overnight works but I find spraying with WD40 softens the old grease and the use of fine grade steel wool cleans it all plus allowing me to get everything back together the same day.  The central coils pose a problem I solve by making a rag "pull through" that I work back and forth into the centre.

 

No. 2 - This was my baptism of fire.  On my very first spring I had a break at the keyhole, a common problem but very repairable without any significant loss of spring length.

 

No.3 - A new keyhole has been formed.  Notice the bend near the end of the spring to allow easier location onto the spigot.

 

No.4 - The spring back in the case with grease applied.  In this instance I used molybdenum grease ( commonly referred to as "Moly" grease and used for car cv joints).  However I have heard that it can cause suction to occur between spring coils that leads to their sudden release causing the bumping sound encountered when the coils stick together and suddenly release because of  old, sticky grease.  Although I have never encountered this myself I have now moved on to using general purpose, lithium based grease.  Notice also the direction of the spring in the case.  This is not a constant between different models of motor so always take note of the direction of the spring when the case is first opened.

 

No.5 - Just in case the lubrication diagram is missing from your machine here is a typical one for the No 59 motor.  Any reference to oiling should be done with sewing machine oil.  All other greasing may be done with General Multipurpose Grease. NB Resist the temtation to substitute sewing machine oil with 3 in 1 oil.  Over time the latter will become sticky and cause sound problems as it causes fluctuations in governor plate running.